Heliotrope San Francisco


Neroli is an oil that comes from the distillation of a flower from a bitter-orange tree (called a Neroli in Italy). So it's a floral, but it's related to a citrus. Its fragrance relieves stress and relaxes. The smell has also been known for its sensual effects; it's considered an aphrodisiac (by those that believe in such things). Neroli is used to help heal skin, it heals broken capillaries, regenerates skin, and helps promote elasticity. 

Also known as Citrus aurantium subsp. amara or Bigaradia, Neroli is also one of the safest extracts there is, it's nontoxic, non-irritating, and nonsensetizing, which is why it's great in products for skin. We're able to put neroli oil in nearly all of our products so you can have the added benefits even if neroli is not an ingredient!

Its natural anti-inflammatory and anti-redness properties make it a natural for skin care products meant for the face. 

You can find neroli in these products:




Written by Gaby Mendoza — August 04, 2015

Purple Mangosteen

Purple Mangosteen is one of the cutest fruits we've ever seen! It's a small white fruit inside of a red/purple shell that grows on trees. It's primarily grown in Southeast Asia, in countries such as China, Cambodia, Indonesia, Thailand, etc. They're not usually sold in other countries, so consider yourself lucky and stock up if you spot purple mangosteen in the fruit section at your grocery store.

Purple Mangosteen is full of antioxidants and contains a ton of vitamin C, and it does wonders for skin. Only the white part of the fruit is consumed and is primarily used in skin/hair products. It has anti-inflammatory properties, and is used to treat acne and soothes scars, burns, etc. It can be used as a topical medication as well, since it can treat skin infections and wounds. 

You can find purple mangosteen in this product:


Written by Gaby Mendoza — August 05, 2015

Gotu Kola sounds delicious

If there were a soda called "Gotu Kola," I would definitely drink it.  However, Gotu Kola (Centella asiatica) is actually found in the wetlands of Asia; it’s very herby, leafy, and green - and sometimes has small white and lavender colored flowers in its center. Gotu kola is used for its anti-aging properties - it increases collagen production while decreasing inflammation. It gives a rejuvenating feeling; in some cultures, gotu kola is used to balance chakra and used for meditative purposes.

A lot of the times, gotu kola is said to be given the sensation of a coolant; it helps heal burns and bruises. It has also been helpful in reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles in the face, stretch marks, scars, and psoriasis. 

In many other countries gotu kola is actually used for eating; it can be eaten raw, cooked, chopped you name it! It turns out, there are actually drinks with gotu kola in it. I guess I can drink it after all!


You can find gotu kola in these products:



Written by Gaby Mendoza — July 06, 2015

Babassu is the New Coconut

I know, Babassu sounds like somewhere you’d want to take your next vacation. In reality, it yields an essential oil that - just like an exotic trip - is calming, relaxing, and leaves you feeling refreshed.


Attalea speciosa oil comes from Babassu palm trees in Brazil and is used to calm redness, treat dryness and itchiness, and is a useful moisturizer. Babassu is becoming more and more popular due to its many health and skin benefits, slowly but surely making its way as being the new coconut oil. The properties in babassu oil are one of the main reasons the oil is rising up in the beauty biz; it’s composed of a ton of fatty acids, made up of 70% lipids. In case you haven’t guessed, that’s a good thing when it comes to applying the oil on your skin; it’s a solid that melts on contact. It’s not greasy either, when you use it on your hair it leaves a nice sheen that doesn’t look or feel wet like other oils normally do.


You can find babassu in these products:




Written by Gaby Mendoza — July 06, 2015

"What's our botanical ingredient with the oddest name?" That'd have to be Bladderwrack, of course!

I’m one for interesting names, and no oil has amused me as much as Fucus vesiculosus, AKA Bladderwrack. Bladderwrack sounds so silly, and yet the way it’s used could not be any better. It’s a really nice refresher and it leaves you feeling energetic and ready for your day. Bladderwrack is a common algae from the northern waters near the islands of the Pacific Northwest; and because it’s made from sea algae, it’s extremely soothing. It’s used to treat skin diseases, burns, and in general, dry skin. It’s an antioxidant agent so it definitely keeps you looking young.

Bladderwrack was the original source of iodine, and iodine is essential for a healthy body. "Bladderwrack" is not a common name, even if the name is pretty amazing. It's also known as rock weed, sea oak, red fucus, and rock wrack. The names come from the way Bladderwrack looks; a wrack is coarse brownish seaweed, and in Bladderwrack’s case it comes in a reddish tint. Bladderwrack floats due to its air bladders, which give the algae some oomph and buoyancy.

You can find bladderwrack in these products:



Written by Gaby Mendoza — July 06, 2015

How are our Olive Oil Soaps made?

We use the cold process soap-making process. This means organic oils are saponified* at a (comparatively) low temperature. It also means that our soap bars can be stored unwrapped and exposed to air. 

Here's what happens:

1. extra virgin organic olive oil is blended with organic palm & coconut oils

2. a strong base (lye) is added to the oil mixture, which - through the magic of chemistry - creates three soap molecules plus one glycerin molecule

3. as this mixture is stirred and warmed to just above room temperature, soap begins to form

4. essential oils and other pure botanicals & natural additives are added for scent, texture, and efficacy

5. the new soap is poured into wooden molds and covered

6. after a few days, when the soap is still warm & not quite hard, the bars are cut and our logo is stamped into each bar

7. the soap then cures for four to six weeks


We absolutely adore our Organic Olive Oil soaps. Please check them out here. Also, note that we've discontinued the Orange Cinnamon soap in order to being in a fabulous new fragrance later this year. It'll be phenomenal, trust me.


* "saponification" - those of you who studied high school French will recognize le mot français <savon> which derives from the Latin <saponem> for "soap" SO... "saponify" = "to make into soap"

Written by Heliotrope San Francisco — October 28, 2014

We Salute You, Illinois


Illinois took a stand this month and banned the sale of skin care products containing plastic microbeads. These microbeads, found most commonly in scrubs (for body and face), do a thorough job of cleaning pores and scraping away dead skin, but it comes at the expense of also tearing and irritating the skin. As if that weren't bad enough, they're wreaking havoc on marine life, both saltwater and fresh.

report recently published by the U.N. Environment Programme says plastic waste causes $13 billion in damage every year to marine life. Since the beads are so small, fish and other marine life easily swallow them, causing DNA damage and even death. A 2008 study from UK researchers showed that the plastics remained inside mussels for 48 days. Last year, researchers at the University of Wisconsin-Superior reported at the National Meeting & Exposition of the American Chemical Society that there were 1,500 to 1.7 million plastic particles per square mile in the Great Lakes.

As a native Michigander, that last bit breaks my heart. Those gigantic bodies of fresh water, which account for one-fifth of the world's fresh surface water, are of great import. We're killing off the wildlife that relies upon those Great Lakes because major skin care companies decided that increasing profit was more important than the health of a vital ecosystem.

There are numerous accessible and natural alternatives to plastic microbeads for exfoliation; ground fruit seeds, nuts, bamboo, sugar, oats, salt, coffee (glorious, delicious coffee), etc. We at Heliotrope favor oats and bamboo currently, but just about anything is better than plastic.

Illinois has made a breakthrough effort to get the ball rolling on this, and the movement is definitely picking up steam.

The Illinois ban is encouraging for other states pushing similar laws, and the fact that Illinois’ new ban had industry players on board means cooperation is possible in other regions, too. “This was a cooperative effort with the industry in order to address our and their concerns,” says Jennifer Walling, executive director of the Illinois Environmental Council. “In the end, we were trying to get something that would pass. Other states should try for more stringent standards.”

Walling says she’s happy with the results, though she wishes the timeline was shorter. Manufacturers have a phase out period between 2017-2019. Other states like New York, California and Ohio are trying to pass similar bans. California wants to allow biodegradable beads, and New York lawmakers, which worked with plastic-fighting group 5 Gyres, have so far received positive response to their legislation. Earlier this summer, New Jersey democrat U.S. Rep. Frank Pallone Jr. introduced a bill that would make a nationwide ban possible in 2018.

We agree with Walling; the timeline should be shorter. We've learned for a fact that these microbeads are killing marine life, so why the wait?

Written by Don Snider — June 27, 2014

Essential Oils

Oh Lavender, My Lavender


LAVENDER (Lavendula Angustifolia): it's native across the globe - from North and East Africa to Southern Europe and the Mediterranean, and as far as India. It's also grown throughout the western world in similar climates. The ancient Romans used lavender in their wash to smell great and act as a natural anti-bacterial - in fact, the latin name of the plant has the same root (no pun intended) as our word "laundry." (The Greeks called it "nard," but I guess that wasn't as catchy and didn't make it big in etymological circles). Its essential oil has been used to heal, to calm, and to keep pests away.
If I had my way, lavender would be in every product we make, since I love it above all other oils. It's a flower but doesn't smell too floral; it's got a certain 'green-ness' to its scent, and it blends so well with most other oils - kind of a universal essential oil to bring a sense of well-being and health to the whole of the universe.

Cardamom Boy

Cardamom keeps popping up - there must a reason. Pondering this earlier this week, I realized it was time to get this blog up and running again, and cardamom was the entry point. Years ago, when my BFF starting a baking business, she made cardamom shortbread, which was out of this world (I miss all those bags of baked goodies that used to come my way). Then I discovered cardamom ice cream at that great Indian place on Valencia St (the one that was just closed by the Health Dept, but we won't talk about that). Then the first time I visited my ex-boyfriend's apartment, there was a photo of an African boy in front of a cardamom plant. I figured this must all be fate.
It's also amazing that it pops up in regional cooking in such far-off places as Sweden and India - between which there hasn't been much historical cross-pollenation. It's been used over the centuries as an anti-bacterial, an anti-inflammatory, a digestive tonic, and even a snake serum antidote! But it smells spicy and clean, and goes well with other 'spicy' essential oils, such as pepper and bay laurel.

Written by Heliotrope San Francisco — February 26, 2014

The Words & the Bees: Beeswax & Propolis

Of course, we all know what beeswax is, but why is it used as an ingredient in skin care products? Bees create the wax to build their honeycombs, which is how their honey is stored. The wax starts out white, but ends up more yellow or brown as pollen oils and propolis is incorporated. Because of its inherent impurities, it needs to be purified before human use.

Beeswax acts as an emollient (softens skin) and an emulsifier (keeps solutions blended, to eliminate separation). It's a natural additive for skin care products, rather than synthetic chemicals, and imparts a subtle aroma. Propolis, meanwhile, is derived from the tree resins that bees collect. It moisturizes and acts as a natural anti-bacterial.

These natural powerhouses are combined in one of my favorite Heliotrope products, our Shea & Beeswax Hand & Cuticle Therapy. It feels great on hands, soaks in quickly, heals hands, nails & cuticles, and is naturally fragrance-free (or custom scent it with our large selection of essential oils). While you're at it, try our wonderful Sunflower & Shea Butter Foot Treatment, which also incorporates beeswax. This nourishing cream is especially rich - best slathered on feet & then covered up in socks to soak in and heal overnight (or anytime). I love it so much, I use it on my hands on especially dry days. It doesn't soak in as quickly as the Hand & Cuticle Therapy, but it feels great.

Written by Heliotrope San Francisco — February 26, 2014


It dawned on me that there are a lot of good things listed in our ingredients that, in fact, *sound* like bad things. (We've even discussed this in a previous blog entry). Did you ever look at the back of a label and wonder "What the heck is Pyridoxine?" Actually, you need pyridoxine to survive - it's the chemical name of the compound we call Vitamin B6. Vitamins are organic compounds that humans need to survive, yet cannot be synthesized by our bodies in sufficient amounts - therefore, they must be ingested.

Milk cartons tell us "Vitamins A + D added" - (much better sounding than "Retinyl Palmitate + Cholecalciferol added"). Vitamin D, in particular, is difficult to get in a regular American diet, and doctors believe that D is the one vitamin supplement that's really worthwhile. With all the sunscreen we're wearing, it's that much more difficult for our bodies to produce enough D.

New studies tell us that ingesting daily multi-vitamins may not be best for us after all - the smartest method is to eat a balanced diet. It's also smart to feed your skin with balanced nutrients - pure vegetable oils, botanical extracts, essential oils, and vitamins.

Written by Heliotrope San Francisco — February 26, 2014


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